While not being a keeper shot, it serves the purpose to try out an adaptation of bellows into a Focus Rail. Advantage being small increments can be easier, bonus is bellows do what they do, allow greater magnification, closer focus



After purchase of bellows, cost = $0.00 + a lot of time and effort to drill and tap all those holes. All parts either Gathered, or permanently Borrowed.

If there is ONE constant that I love in the Photography world, EVERY camera maker/Accessory maker has the exact same stud/thread combo, on tripods and camera bases. 1/4-20 UNC [unless you go pro with 3/8th, even then an adaptor insert brings it back to standard] thus one can make things as such in a home workshop rather easily.

Until Next time
out there in The Great Beyond.

Once upon a time back when I was a little tacker, I bought a SLR, prior to the now Dslr.
I liked the art of Photography, so I joined a Photographic Society, a fancy name for "Camera Club".

One month the subject was set as "Moon", there were many many failures, white blobs, I too failed the set subject.

I learnt from that, the moon is 100% reflected sunlight, and as such one needs expose for Direct Sunlight, not the predominantly overall dark of the rest of the frame.

M is for Manual setting is your friend when taking the moon. I take a lot of shots in Manual mode.
I mostly Underexpose the moon by at least 2 or 3 Fstops, one just tweaks the dial, then press shutter half way to see the exposure level.

Pssssst, this a secret, do not tell anyone how it's done Ok.

Would you believe you could take such a crap pic?
Much less resurrect it?

Said ATROCIOUS pic......



Up the contrast slightly it does make a subtle difference in the tunnel .....



Mask the over exposure with a full color tint toning to suit sepia ...



Add Sepia over it ....



Horrid composition ........



Change that with a crop .....





Add the vignette I'm so fond of using .....



Add border I'm also fond of using ... an Viola ... resurrected to an ok pic



as happy as a pig in cheese

The town of Bathurst 1992 .....



Black Flagged, James Hardy 1000, Sunday October 4th 1992 [date specific]



1971 MK1 Ford Escort, British racing green #3 complete with racing stripe, 1600CC GT engine, Solid engine mounts, Big cam, Twin 2 inch SU's, Lightened flywheel, Mig Locker, Lightened body, Custom 2 foot long exhaust, full race cage, and went like a shower of cheese! until sadly totally destroyed in the second rollover of its career



Ford fans will NOTE, I owned a Holden I am a GM holden man, Raced a Ford, and towed it with a Toyota

There is NO excuse for those brush marks!!!!
Not even time of day, or angle of screen.

This is just NOT good enough, Mr. F Stop!!!

You made a better job with this one? Sheesh!

While the results of Le Grub don't match those of Le Frog, Le Grub is so much smaller than Le Frog!



Still though, one hell of a 'Little Beast'



Happy Snapping

Holy dingoes right ? ...... Ummm NO!

but,

High-dynamic-range

The left of the pic is Way over exposed in full sun?
The right is in full shade and Way under exposed?
The center is near spot on for exposure, being neither full or partial sun?

Bracketing ... a simple term, one pic at correct exposure, one pic one stop underexposed, and one pic one stop overexposed, now if you look in your instruction manual for your camera, there may be an automatic bracketing setting already in your camera ... one press of the shutter button can take all three shots simon [shock horror, even some phones have a HDR setting?][bracketing is not limited to only 3 pix, nor in full f/stops ... cameras have become adjustable to the max, where is the manual? ]

We then jamb all three pix together .... the overexposed bits bring up the underexposed on the original, and the underexposed bring down the overexposed on the original.

This technique is very useful in interior building shots EG: a cathedral where the dimmer light leads one to expose for the interior, and any light entering a window is so far overexposed it looks like a sign, a sign from God! or a situation where there are strong light and dark areas? in a shot.

The technique is not new, again its been around 120 years, now in digital it has become a lot easier to try if not master.

Waffle and Ice Cream Sundae

Photography

OMG, gee I'm into it, if I could go pro I would, I'm not here for the crap, bite me!

So, if you into Photography, and have been for years?
You're into 'f.stops' 'exposure times' 'apertures' 'focal lengths'
'ISO speed' 'flash on/off' 'fill flash' 'camera makers' 'lens manufacturers'
and now in digital, a lot more terms and geek speak.

I see a couple of pix, every so often that are good to better than average
I wonder what the MetaData is?
having to ask every time is a bit painful, no?

Why show metadata?
well one pic of a subject at 1/60 f32, may show great depth of field but be over exposed, f32 is near as high as you can go, decreasing that to f22 is going to increase the over exposure, bad move.
so we increase the shutter speed from 1/60 to 1/125? or 1/250.

a shot is failing focus across the depth of the subject?
aperture or f/stop
yes increasing or decreasing f/stop affects the shutter speed, but if it is clarity you want, or lack there of, you dial a particular f/stop, and compensate with shutter speed.

why is my pic grainy? what ISO .... 3200 ISO and even 6400 ISO are feasible now days and thats why you picture is grainy.

summary: if meta data is posted novices can learn from it, and old dogs still learn a few tricks too, plus they don't have to ask what did you use? It would be nice to see that option included inside this site, as all pix travel uploaded with metadata, I have no shame sharing mine

now
2 photographers were in a mall, one stopped in front of a busker to listen, the other went on.
It was a long time before the first caught up too the second. and the second asked the first: "Well what did you give him?"
The first proudly exclaimed: "Why it was 1/125th @ f16"

Waffle complete